Break-In Oil - Does Zinc Additive Really Help?
Why use break-in oil?
The lifeblood of every engine, oil is far too often misunderstood and incorrectly utilized. Engine oil does so much more than just lubrication, each formulation performs differently in various engine types based on the needs of that particular engine. Diesel engine oils have different detergent additives to handle diesel combustion byproducts, such as soot, while gas engine oils have gasoline-specific detergents. Under daily use, these oils do their job well, but what about under break-in conditions? The first 30 minutes are critical for the engine's life, and then the next 1,000 miles are nearly as necessary, making your choice of oil paramount to a successful build. Whether you are working with a crate engine or one you built yourself, break-in oil is necessary because these oils are fortified with high levels of Zinc phosphate, commonly referred to as ZDDP.
Does Break-in oil with Zinc actually help?
The most common reference to break-in oil is flat-tappet cams, which are most likely to fail in the first 30-minutes of an engine break-in without the right oil. Unfortunately, this has led to an issue with engines running roller cams having break-in problems because the lifters are not the only component inside a new engine that needs protection. All of the heavy-action components inside your engine--piston rings, bearings, crankshaft, connecting rods, and lifters all need protection from the initial start-up that will determine the wear pattern on these parts for the life of the engine. How ZDDP facilitates these break-in changes depends on the actual part.
Lifters
As mentioned before, the lifters get the lion-share of discussion about break-in for a good reason, these parts are the most likely to fail within the first 30 minutes of run time. That is specifically for flat-tappet cams. A flat tappet camshaft is a standard cam profile that uses a flat-ended lifter to operate the valves. The lifter’s flat end surface sits directly on the cam lobe, it is direct metal-to-metal contact in the worst possible way. There is no bearing or wear surface, just raw metal on raw metal. Without a protective layer, these metals heat up and gall very quickly. Assembly lube IS NOT adequate protection for these surfaces.
This is a sliding motion component; the lifter surface slides along the cam lobe. This is the most destructive type of contact. Once broken in, a lifter and cam lobe become one homogenous system, and the two components establish a consistent wear pattern for those two pieces; if you switch the lifter around on the cam, they will burn up almost instantly because the two surfaces do not match anymore. Within that first 30 minutes of break-in, the lifters and cam lobes work harden. If you have ever tried to drill stainless steel, you have likely experienced this phenomenon, it becomes impossible to drill because the steel is rock hard. While the lifter itself is what gets talked about, it is the cam lobes that are worn away in a break-in failure, so it isn’t like you can just swap lifters; the camshaft itself is ruined and has to be replaced.
Flat tappet cam break-in oil protects the lifters and cam by adding a second layer of protection. It does this through heat and friction. Yes, friction. Flat tappet lifters spin in their bores, which helps establish the wear pattern. ZDDP is an interesting chemical, it provides a friction element for traction to generate spin, and when the components reach 300 degrees, the ZDDP protective layer activates and acts as a barrier between the two surfaces as the oil loses its lubricity above 300 degrees.
Roller cams also benefit from ZDDP, but not on the same level as flat tappets.
Crank, rods, and bearings
Unlike lifters and cams, there are bearing surfaces between the crank and main caps and the connecting rods. ZDDP does help protect these surfaces, particularly under boundary friction situations such as cold starts. Boundary friction is when the surface is partially wet but not fully lubricated. This is most common in cold starts and the initial start-up of a fresh build. The assembly lube fills the immediate lubrication, but most assembly lubes wash away quickly, giving way to the oil. Those first few minutes need the ZDDP heat protection to prevent galling during the break-in phase.
Piston rings
Much like lifters, the piston rings slide in the cylinder bores, they also spin on the piston itself. The same protection from ZDDP occurs here very quickly, as the rings see much higher temps immediately upon start up. The traction component of ZDDP plays an even more significant role for piston rings, as all new engines have significant blow-by because the rings have not worn in to the shape of each cylinder bore yet. This is another area where all new engines need a higher ZDDP level than engines that have been thoroughly broken in.
Controlling the piston ring wear-in process is critical for all engines; in fact, engine break-in is more about the piston rings than anything else. Smoothing out the jagged edges on the cylinder walls is what allows the rings to seat, reducing blow-by and oil consumption.
Engine Break-In oil, what is it?
High zinc engine break-in oils are based on conventional oil, never synthetic, with a heavy dose of ZDDP and molybdenum anti-wear compounds. As explained in our article on Zinc Additive for Oil How Much ZDDP is Enough, modern engine oils no longer have enough ZDDP to adequately protect a fresh engine. It is essential to use a proper break-in oil to ensure that all your money and hard work are not wasted because of an easily avoidable issue like premature engine wear.
The goal of the break-in process is to control wear across all surfaces. You don’t want a slippery oil for break-in, so you don’t use synthetic oil for the initial start-up. The brand-new car you buy can have synthetic oil in the engine when you buy it because it has already been broken in; your new crate motor, however, has not been. Even standard conventional oils have friction modifiers in their formulation, inhibiting the break-in process. Flat tappet cam break-in oil helps increase friction in certain areas as required for a complete break-in process.
Break-in oils are typically straight base oil without friction modifiers, and as much as 4000 PPM of ZDDP, which, when used at this level in an engine with more than 1,000 miles, can cause the opposite of protection, as too much ZDDP becomes caustic and causes more wear. For an initial break-in, these levels are not too much, as you are controlling the wear, and the oil is not used for very long.
When Do I Need Break-In Oil?
All new engines, regardless of year or cam style, require ZDDP for the first start-up and break-in period. This is for crate engines, rebuilds, and new custom builds. Engines installed in your new car off the dealer lot are not in the category; they have already been broken in. You also need to use high zinc break-in oil with any flat-tappet cam swap. It wouldn’t hurt to use a ZDDP additive or break-in oil for roller cams, but it isn’t as critical to have higher levels of ZDDP with roller cams.
Choosing Your Break-In Oil
What is the best break in oil for a flat tappet cam? There are two ways to get high zinc engine break-in oil: pre-formulated with high zinc or use a base oil with a ZDDP zinc additive for engine break-in. Buying off-the-shelf high zinc break-in oil is quick and easy; this is the best break-in oil for flat tappet cams. These oils are specially formulated to give you precisely what you need for a proper break-in, provided it is used as prescribed. What you get with a pre-formulated break-in oil, such as Lucas High-Zinc Break-In oil, are no detergents. This is a critical piece of the puzzle for the initial break-in, as detergents in your break-in oil tend to inhibit the break-in process.
Some break-in oils list they can be used for higher mileage (up to 4,000 miles). This indicates they have detergents in the formulation to grab onto particles from the break-in process. It is your choice, but most engine builders highly recommend using a non-detergent break-in oil and promptly changing it after the initial 30-45 minute break-in process. The detergency level of your oil is important for the life of your engine, but in that initial break-in, it tends to be more detrimental than helpful.
Can I get a Zinc Additive for break-in?
Yes, but if you choose to pick your own base oil and add a ZDDP break-in additive, select a non-detergent base oil for this same reason. There isn’t a good reason to run your initial break-in oil beyond that first 30-ish minutes.
Reading the Bottle
Pick up any bottle of oil and you will see all kinds of markings and codes. These tell you what formulation and grade the oil is. Beyond the weight, how do you know what is what?
SAE Viscosity Grade
This is the weight or grade of the oil. There are two grade types- straight weight and multi-viscosity. Single or straight-weight oil is listed as a single number, such as SAE 30. Straight-weight oils are typically used in machinery and are rated by the viscosity at 100 degrees Celsius. Modern motor oils are typically multi-weight, such as 5W-30, 0W-20, etc. The first number is the winter weight, hence the “W”, the second number is the operating viscosity at 100 degrees Celsius. The lower the number, the thinner the oil. Most newer vehicles use very thin oil, such as 0w-20. This is because newer engines have much tighter tolerances, so the oil has to be thinner to function as a lubricant.
API, DEXOS, and ILSAC
This is where things get tricky. Every few years, EPA regulations change, and the oil for those specific years must match. API ratings (American Petroleum Institute) began in 1930 with SA-rated oil. Most oils available today are SN or higher, with a 2020 API rating of SP. If you find some SA through SE oil, it is for shop dressing only, as it will damage a modern engine. The API rating is based on the year model of your vehicle. Changes to the API rating are what lead to the necessity of ZDDP additives in the first place.
- 1996-SJ
- 2001-SL
- 2004- SM
- 2010- SN
- 2018- SN Plus
- 2020- SP
These also correspond with ILSAC ratings (International Lubricant Specification Advisory Committee), which begin with GF-X; the first rating came out in 1993 as GF-1. Currently, there are three active ILSAC ratings, GF-5 (2011), GF-6A, and GF-6B (2020). The GF-6A and 6B ratings are for specific weights of oil, GF-6B is for 0W-16, and GF-6A covers the rest of the commonly used viscosities.
In 2010, GM released its own oil rating, dexos, which starts as, surprise, dexos1, which is now obsolete. The current level is dexos1 Gen 2. While new modern engines may require brand-specific oil, there is no specific SBC break-in oil for older GM engines or a Ford-only small block Ford engine break-in oil, you just need quality oil from a reputable manufacturer. Most engine break-in oils are only one viscosity- 30 weight, but there are a few brands that offer thinner eights, but most builders agree that straight SAE 30 weight break-in oil is best for that first 30-45 minutes of run time. This is because multi-viscosity oils contain friction modifiers that inhibit the wear-in process. When starting up a freshly built engine, there is such as thing as too slippery.
What does this mean? Quite a lot, and it is really important, but very few people know that they need to be paying attention to the ratings because the newer ratings are not backward compatible, meaning you could end up with engine damage if you used SP, GF6A/B rated oils in a vehicle older than 2020. SN Plus is the most common API rating and is backward compatible with most engines, along with ILSAC GF5 and dexos1 Gen 2. GF-6A is backward compatible for their weight ratings.
For “Classic” engines, such as the SBC (small block Chevy), 10W-40 is often used, as these engines are built with loose tolerances, to begin with, and as they get more miles on them, they loosen up a bit more. 10W-40 is commonly used on original (not rebuilt) engines built before the mid-1990s. There is no ILSAC rating for these oils, these are API SP standards only.
Governmental regulations, as well as manufacturing technologies, change quickly. Just a quick read into the ratings shows how much can change in just a few short years. Metallurgy and tolerances in newer modern engines have reduced the need for ZDDP, in addition to the fact that ZDDP levels above 1000 destroy catalytic converters, which was the main driving force behind its removal from modern engine oil. Many cams have been destroyed because this information doesn’t flow downhill very well, meaning the people who make the rules know it, the engineers know it, but the consumers rarely, if ever, even hear about these changes. I first learned of the issue in 2007 after a cam swap in a Pontiac 455 went south 20 minutes into the break-in, even though ZDDP was first reduced in 1994.
How long should you use break-in engine oil?
After your initial start-up and break-in, the engine is still not fully broken in, and you still need that extra ZDDP. You can run more break-in oil for the next 1,000 miles or so, or you can switch to standard motor oil and simply add 1200 ppm of ZDDP to provide the necessary protection for your engine during the rest of the break-in process.