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Mexican Blanket Car Interior - DIY Ideas, History, & Vehicle Usage

4/18/2023
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Mexican-style blankets, or Serapes, have been a mainstay in the classic car world pretty much since the beginning of time. These blankets are sturdy, durable, and inexpensive, making them perfect for a budget refresh on your tattered seat upholstery. Some people use these to add a pop of color in an otherwise drab interior or to protect the original upholstery, while others use blankets to create a new seat cover from scratch. Either way, the end result of serape seat covers are a big statement in the interior of any vehicle.

Origins of the Mexican Blanket in Vehicles

There is no way to truly pinpoint where this trend of the Mexican blanket car interiors came from, but it has been part of the underworld of hot rodding forever. Back in the 40s and 50s, cars had poor heating systems if they had one at all, so most people kept blankets in their cars. In the southwestern states (California, Arizona, New Mexico), Mexican and Navajo blankets have long been a mainstay in gas stations and mercantile shops along the roadways. People used to keep a couple of these blankets in the car for warmth when they needed it. Over time, the blankets were draped out across the seats to cover worn upholstery or to protect the upholstery from wear.

What Kinds of Cars Usually Have Serape Interiors?

Eventually, the hot rodders of the 50s found that these blankets were an easy way to cover a seat in a T-bucket, Model A, or Shoebox Ford instead of spending their hard-earned cash at an upholstery shop. This Mexican blanket car interior styling remained in the SoCal scene on low-rent hot rods for decades until the movie Pulp Fiction featured a blanket rear seat cover, which ignited a firestorm of hot rodders all over the country using this style of blanket in their 60s and 70s cars and trucks. The Mexican blanket car interior trend has receded back to the niche ends of the hobby, but you still see this style on all manner of hot rods, lowriders, trucks, muscle cars, and cruisers. For this Mexican blanket car interior project, we are working with a 1956 Chevy Truck bench seat.

DIY Ideas for Mexican Blankets in Your Car's Interior

Making DIY Mexican blanket seat covers is not difficult, in fact, you can even do so without a sewing machine. There are numerous types of blankets you can use for these covers. The ones we are using here are Mexican Serape style, other styles include Navajo, Pendelton, or saddle blankets, all of which have a unique style. You don’t have to stop at the seats, Mexican blanket upholstery looks great on door panels and consoles, and even a Mexican blanket headliner lends a super cool vibe for a stylized lowrider or cruiser. A few DIY ideas for a Mexican blanket car interior include a headliner, door panels, dash covers, rear deck cover, trunk upholstery, and even wrapping custom console panels is a great way to incorporate more Serape blankets into your design.

We started with a 1956 Chevy truck that only had a bare seat frame, why not use a couple of Mexican blankets from Speedway Motors—they offer a blue or red Mexican blanket to create a custom seat cover from scratch. This project can use a Mexican blanket, in whole or part, on your existing seat. Keep in mind that this is a bench seat for a truck, so the rear of the seat will rarely be seen. If you are working on a rear bench seat, the back and sides will never be seen as well. For front bench seats, you will likely want to take a little more care to wrap the rear of the seat a little cleaner than we did here on this project.

These are the basic tools you need to make no-sew custom DIY Mexican blanket seat covers. A box of hog rings, hog ring pliers, side-cutters, upholstery sheers, a razor blade, burlap, and of course the blanket.
This is our seat frame, which we previously had disassembled and painted with some rust-converting paint. The cushion springs are all in decent shape, but a lot of the spring ties are broken.
Using some replacement springs we made, we replaced the broken spring ties. Each spring was bent with a pair of pliers to secure them to the cushion springs in an X pattern. Two tie springs will connect four cushion springs.
Your springs should look something like this. Note the one rusty spring - we replaced that spring with a spring from another seat frame using hog rings to secure it to the perimeter frame.

Tools For Installing a Mexican Blanket Interior

To do this project you need a couple of specialty tools, mainly a set of quality hog ring pliers. You do not want to use cheap pliers like you might get with an upholstery kit. Thin bar-style pliers are hard to use and hurt your hands after just a few uses. You need a set of good quality professional hog ring pliers, even if you only ever plan to install one set of seat covers. Your hands will thank you for spending the $20-30 for a good pair of pliers. In most cases, all you need are straight-pliers, but a set of 45-degree hog ring pliers can get into tight corners better, so having both types is beneficial. We used a pair of straight pliers for the entire process on this seat.

You also need a pair of good upholstery sheers. These are not shop scissors, these are for fabric only. We used a pair of vintage 1950s Clauss upholstery sheers that we bought at a garage sale about 15 years ago and restored. If you use plain scissors, you will snag the fabric and they won’t cut clean, but they will work, just not as well as a dedicated pair of upholstery sheers. You can buy new professional sheers for 30-60 bucks at your local fabric shop. Just don’t ever cut paper, only use them for upholstery materials, otherwise they will dull quickly.

Hog Rings are the other thing you have to have for this project. Upholstery hog rings are large gauge wire staples that you bend with hog-ring pliers. They are quite literally the exact same thing used to ring a domesticated pig nose so they don’t root. Most upholstery rings are C-type, but there are also D and M type rings. The letter indicates the final shape when crimped.

On the bottom of the base, we created a listing wire to secure the new upholstery to with panhead screws placed about 4ish inches apart.
Then we twisted a loop on the end of a piece of bailing wire and secured the ends to a screw.
Each screw got one loop of wire, which was pulled tight by hand, and then on to the next screw. Once we had the entire perimeter wired, the screws were tightened.

If you have some experience with stitching, you can sew a blanket into a seat cover, however, sewing seat covers requires an upholstery sewing machine, a common clothing sewing machine is not capable of sewing through multiple layers of upholstery materials, and can quickly burn up the motor. With this in mind, we set out to make this cover in a manner that every hobbyist can handle—without a sewing machine. We do have an upholstery machine in the shop, but most hobbyists don’t, so we stuck to no-sew techniques that look good and work quite well for this DIY Mexican blanket seat cover. In fact, this style will last just as long as a stitched seat cover. There are a couple of caveats that you will have to accept—the corners of the seat cover are folded over. This is part of a no-sew cover; however, you can use fabric heat-bond tape after the job is done to permanently bond the folds together if you choose to do so.

We laid burlap over the springs and started setting hog rings. Double over the material when possible to ensure the hog rings don’t pull through. Start along one side of the length of the seat, and always work form the middle out, front to back.
We pulled a little tension back to front, to set the base tension on the springs. Each hog ring was placed on this layer every other spring. You don’t need to stretch the burlap over the frame, just covering the springs themselves at this point.
This is what you are looking for in the base layer, snug but not tight, just a base layer.
Next, we laid out three layers of cotton batting over the springs. For the bottom springs, the batting should cover the entire spring layer and roll over to the bottom edge of the frame. The seat back gets all three layers over the top edge of the frame.
The next layer of burlap is cut long so that we have plenty of material to work with, as this layer has to wrap all the way under the frame.
The listing wire should be tight, so you may need to use some pliers to pull the wire up off the frame so you can hook a ring under it.
We set the rear center ring and then place two rings on either side. Work one side of the burlap and then the next. We then stretched the burlap over the batting and pulled it tight. Then we placed rings from the center out, pulling to eliminate wrinkles.
The sides get wrapped next. This is a good time to figure out how you will lay the corner seam. We will do the blanket like the front and tuck it under the side material. We left the burlap long, as we will finish trim the material with the blanket.

The seat we are working with has a few extra steps because this is a bare seat frame. If your seat has existing upholstery or cushion foam/batting, you can skip this part. In order to make it work as a seat again, we have to repair a few springs that were broken. This is not difficult, but you can’t buy specific seat spring ties, you have to make them. We picked up some porch door return springs and stretched them out to make ours because we needed quite a few of them. Some seats like this are tied with string, typically jute rope. This is a labor-intensive project, luckily our springs were tied with metal springs instead.

We measured the width of the seat and marked the center with a Sharpie. Our Speedway Motors blankets have a wide center stripe and we want that centered on the seat. The mark helps keep it in line.
If you have a center point, you need to keep it centered on the seat for the best look. The fold line will naturally smooth out in the next few days after finishing the seat.
We started from the front of the seat, and worked from the center out. The blanket must be kept straight with this pattern, you don’t want any zig-zag, so you need to pull the blanket tight along the width.
We stretched the blanket to the back, and placed hog rings about every three inches, side to side from the center. The sides of the blanket were left loose at the edge of the side roll, you want options when wrapping the sides.
Wrapping the corner is the tricky part. We pulled the front edge tight, then picked the upper corner and pulled an edge on the side material, folding it over the front to create a small pocket. The side gets pulled tight to the listing wire on the bottom.
When pulled tight and hog ringed, you end up with a clean transition. If you are concerned with pocket flap, you can always use some fabric heat bond tape to secure the flap.
The driver’s side of the seat was tucked in the same way and hog ringed in place. Next, the sides were pulled tight, taking care to not pull the pattern lines into waves, and hog ringed.
We trimmed out the bottom of the blanket leaving about an inch or so past the hog rings.
The left-over material was rolled over and hog ringed to the listing wire, giving the seat a nice trimmed look.
The finished bottom trim looks like this.

The springs are the base for the seat, but you can’t just put upholstery directly onto the springs. You need either foam or cotton batting. For this Mexican blanket car interior project, we decided to use traditional cotton batting. This is available at any upholstery shop, and it just a roll of cotton sheet about 2 inches thick. This is what the truck seat would have used originally. Replacing foam is a little more work if you are making your own foam pads. If you are buying replacement foams, then you are likely spending for proper seat covers and not a budget cover like this. Universal foam requires shaping so that the edges and corners are rounded. You need a foam saw for this, and that is getting outside of the typical hobbyist realm. It isn’t hard to do, but a foam saw will set you back $250 or more. For our seat, we used three layers of cotton batting on the bottom and back cushions.

Each cushion also needs a couple of layers of burlap cloth. The burlap, which is typically made from jute string woven together (think of an old potato sack), covers the springs and creates a base layer for the batting, and then a second layer of burlap goes over the batting. This sandwich of material protects the batting from the springs and keeps it in place during the process of installing the blanket cover. Three to five layers of batting is good for most applications. The more layers you have, the more potential for shift in the layers, which leads to lumpy covers.

On the upper seat, we fixed a couple springs and laid down the burlap and batting layers just like the bottom cushion. The upper burlap gets pulled tight, but it needs to be even so the top of the seat isn’t wavy. Always work from the center out.
Around the upper corners, we trimmed the batting to reduce the bulk. Remove a little at time, it is a lot easier to cut off more than it is to add it back.
We gathered the burlap and pulled the sides in tight. The upper piece is trickier to keep smooth than the bottom.
At this point, we cut the bolt holes for the seat back and put the seat back onto the lower frame.
We added a washer between upper arm and seat frame upholstery so that the upper arms don’t snag on the fabric.
The center was marked on the seat back with the seat in position on the frame. This is why we bolted the upper to the frame. If you wrap the upper before placing the two halves together, your lines will absolutely not line up.
With this style of blanket, the upper and lower must match or be wildly offset. In our case, the pattern was similar, with slightly different colors. It still worked, but it has a funky vibe for sure.
We pulled the bottom of the blanket through the seat, went about half-way up the rear spring frame and set the rings from center out, making sure the lines matched up as we went. The blanket was doubled over for maximum blanket to ring ratio.

Another unique aspect of this Mexican blanket car interior project is that the lower truck seat frame does not have any hog-ring points. This seat used metal strips that clipped under the edge of the frame. In order to secure the new upholstery, we needed to add a listing wire around the perimeter. We used a series of self-tapping panhead screws placed about every 4-6 inches about an inch inward from the edge around the entire bottom of the seat frame. Then we ran some bailing wire around the perimeter and locked it down with the screws. This gives us a place to attach the hog rings. The seat back is made of wire, so we didn’t need to do this on the back piece. Most seats use wire frames, so this is just a unique case on this specific frame.

Then we stretched the upper half of the blanket over the frame, rolled the edge and ringed the upper over the lower line of the blanket. If this were a front bench and the rear is exposed, we would hide this seam at the bottom of the seat.
Next, the sides of the upper seat were wrapped. We tucked the top edge over the sides this time to reduce the chance of dirt and debris getting caught on the edge of the seam.
From the back, the upper isn’t perfect, but it works for the style we are using. Many factory bench seats used an upholstered center card on the back of the upper seat to clean up the look. You can always do this here if you wanted.
All done! The fold line will fall out over the next few days. The seat is ready to go back into the truck and give you plenty of comfort. The seat feels great and has the look we are after.

If you have some experience working with fabric and vinyl upholstery, this job will take you just a few hours, but even if you have never touched a set of hog ring pliers, you can do the entire seat in a day. You just need some patience and imagination and you can get the job done. Remember—hog rings are removeable, if you don’t like it, cut the ring and start over. Just don’t cut the blanket until you are done, that way you have options should you make a mistake.

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